Woman&#39;s coat



Feb. 7, 1933. J KRAELER 1,896,631

WOMAN'S COAT Filed Aug. 25, 1951 INVENTOR TORNEY Patented Feb. 7, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 1 JOSEPH x mnnmtor NEW. YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR T0 KRAELER COMPANY, INC., 01'

' NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK V womms cm implication filed August 25, 1931. Serial No. 559,174.

This invention relates to ladies coats.

The invention is intended specifically for application to those cases where coats are designed for sale to any one of-a number of persons, who are indeterminate and the tastes of whom cannot be predetermined at the time the garment is manufactured. For this reason,and also since the heights of such purchasers vary, it is necessary to provide, at the time of such manufacture, for the contin ency that the garment maybe required to e lengthened if those different tastes so desire, additional material so arranged that, when altered, the garment will present no trace of this change.

In the manufacture of such garments, the body material, or those sections which, when united, go to making up the main covering, are generally cut to have an extra length for such exigencies. A facing or binding'strip is applied at the vertical edges of such main covering for well known purposes, but ,in most cases, these strips have no provision for such lengthening. In any case, the materials of the body portion andxthe facing, when sewed into the garment, present a stitched edge at the lower extremity of the'garment. In soft fabrics, of which such coats generally are made, this stitched edge interferes with the effecting of proper pressing; also, it bars access to, and prevents thequick' and .easy determination of the quantity of excess material provided forthe lengthening above indicated. 7 g

It is an object of the invention toprovide a method of manufacturing a ladys coat, and a product of such manufacture, in which the product is constructed so that the lower edges of the garment present no stitching or binding restricting proper creasing of the edges,.when they are being presse 7 It is an object of the invention'to. use the excess material, provided for the purposes indicated, to form a. pocket, opening. outwardly and made readily accessible in order that the amount ofsuch excessmay quickly and accurately be determined without the ment.

Other objects of thisinvention will be set being an attempt to show a form in which forth hereinafter, or will be apparent from the description and the drawing, in which is illustrated an embodiment wherein the invention is applied.

The invention, however, is not intended to be restricted to the particular construction and arrangement of such embodiment, nor to the particular applications thereof, nor to the specific methods of manufacture, norto the various steps or details thereof, herein shown and described, as the same may be modified in various particulars or be applied in many varied relations without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, the practical embodiment herein illustrated the invention might be eifectuated. 1. For the attainment of these objects and of such other objects as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, I have illustrated an embodiment of my invention in the drawing wherein .I Fig. lis a view in perspective of a garment embodying the invention, the lower flap being turned back to illustrate the appearance of a corner of the garment;

Fig. 2 is an elevational view of a detail of the lower corner, illustrating clearly; the construction of the garment at this point; i

Fig. 3 is a' section on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2; and

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 1-4 of Fig. 2. I I i The ladys coat 10 illustrated may be made of any desired material; preferably, the body portion 12 is first made up in the usual-manner, for instance, by sewing a pluralitygof material sections, previously cut to conform to any desired pattern. After the body por tion 12 has been assembled, a facing strip 14: is cut,either of the same materialas portion 12,or of any other suitable fabric.

Both portion 12 and facing 14 are cut to a length substantially longer than that necessary for a garment intended for a person of normal size, thereby providing an additional or excess portion 16 forthe body portion, and an excess portion 18 for the facing.

The right faces of both portion and facing edges secured by means of stitching 20. Thereafter the body portion and facing are opened out and the right faces positioned flat upon a table or like support. The bottom edges 22 and 24 of the body portion 12 and facing 14, respectively, are together folded upwardly so that the excess portions now are positioned upon the material or facing of which they each form an integral part. Edge 22 may now be secured to body material 12 by hand-stitching 26 or the like, preferably so that the stitches will not appear on the outer surface of portion 12. Stitching 26 is extended substantially around the garment, if desired, but is terminated short of the connection of portion 12 to the facing by a distance substantially the same distance as the width of facing 14.

The excess portion 18 of facing 14 may now be folded over to superimpose its lower edge 24 on the lower edge 22 of excess portion 16 of the body portion, and these edges may be secured by stitching indicated at 38 in Figures 2 and 4, which stitching extends across the width of the facing portion and there terminates. The folding of the balance of the facing 14, so as to position it over the body portion 12, may now be undertaken and this will be done along the line of seam 20 so that the free edges of hem portions of pieces 12 and 14 will be turned inward to lie between said pieces.

Stitching 30 may then be applied to secure the lower portion of the vertical edge 28 of facing 14 to the excess portion 16 of body portion 12, this stitching extending only the width of these excess portions, and at the same time the folded under edge portion 32 may be formed along the edge 28, so as to present a folded edge. The folded edges 34 and 36 are now secured against separation by suitable basting stitches.

The garment is now ready for pressing, which can be efiected either before or after a lining 40 is applied. The lining preferably is secured only to the edge 28 of the facing, but the stitching for this purpose is not extended through portion 12 and may with profit be made in one operation with stitching 30, as indicated in Figure 3. The lining, furthermore, is left free along its lower horizontal edge 42. After pressing, the basting stitches may be removed, and the garment is then ready for display and sale.

The resulting construction is clearly disclosed in the drawing, and particular attention is called to Figure 4 in which is shown the pocket formed by the infolding of portions 16 and 18, which pocket is closed at the top by stitching 38. In Figure 3 is shown the positioning of the overlapping portions 16 and 18 between the facing 14 and body portion 12, these portions being joined at the left by seam 20. It is to be noted that for these overlapping portions the hem portion is not turned inwardly, as it is for the exposed parts adjacent to seam 20, in order to avoid excessive overlapping or doubling up of material and resulting unsightliness, and for the same reason the folded-under edge portion 32 is omitted on the edge of the excess portion 18 of facing 14, this excess portion being tapered slightly in width at this point so that it will be accommodated within the space between stitching 20 and 30 without overlapping.

It is of course understood that in order to avoid unsightly overlapping as much as possible, the hems are preferably made as narrow as possible. The advisability of this may be seen from Figure 3, in which, if the hem portions adjacent the seam 20 are made too large an overlapping of the outer edge portions with the inturned portions of seam 20 will take place. to make these hem portions of varying widths so that they are narrow where this is necessary and wide where this is not objectionable.

When the garment is being inspected before a sale, and it is desired to determine what length of excess material is provided for the customary adjustments, it is merely necessary to insert the hand in the downwardly opening pocket formed between the opposed excess portions 16 and 18 and the stitching 20 and 30. If further confirmation of this is desired, the hand may be inserted beneath lining 40 to grasp the secured edges 38 and to pull them out through the opening between the facing and portion 12, whereupon the width of excess material is made visible for quick determination. WVhen adjustments are to be made, the stitching 30 may be ripped and the extent of the excess portions reduced the requisite amount, after which the garment is sewed up in any desired manner.

Since the lower edges 34 and 36 of the garment are not defined by any stitching except the stitching at the upper edge of the excess portions, there will be no tendency, when the garment is being pressed, to produce overlapping of the body portion or the facing over any stitching, as sometimes occurs when pressing garments made with such stitching.

Many other changes could be effected in the particular article of manufacture designed, and in the methods of manufacture thereof set forth, and in specific steps or details thereof, without substantially departing from the invention intended to be defined in the claims, the specific description hereinabove being merely for operative embodiments to effectuate the spirit of the invention.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is- 1. A ladys coat having a body portion capable of being lengthened, and including An alternative would be a body material section and a facing section body material portion so that the excess masecured to said body material section, both of terial provides an outwardly opening pocket. In witness whereof I have hereunto signed said sections being of a length greater than that of a coat of normal length, the excess sections being folded upwardly and the facing section with its upwardly turned excess portion being folded to cover the body material section, and the upper edges of said excess portions of the facing and the body material being secured together so that the excess material, where the facing and body material overlap, forms a pocket opening downwardly, the depth of which is substantially that of the excess material.

2. A ladys coat having a body portion capable of being lengthened, and including a body material section, and a facing section secured to said body material section both of said sections being greater than that of a coat of normal length, the excess sections being folded upwardly and the facing section with its upwardly turned excess portion being folded to cover the body material section, the upper edges of said excess portions of the facing and of the body material being secured together and the vertical edge of the .excess facing section being secured to the excess body portion section where they overlap, and secured so that the excess material, where the facing and body material overlap, forms a pocket opening downwardly the depth of which is substantially that of the excess material.

3. The manufacture of ladies coats capable of being adjusted as to length, which comprises the steps of: forming the body material for the coat of a length greater than normal length, making up a piece of facing material of greater length than necessary to face body material of normal length, securing the facing and body material along vertical edges, folding the excess body material and facing upwardly, then positioning the facing upon the body material so that the excess portion of the facing overlaps the contiguous excess portion of the body material, and securing the free edges of these portions together so that the excess material provides an outwardly opening pocket.

4. The manufacture of ladies coats capable of being adjusted as to length, which comprises the steps of: forming the body material for the coat of a length greater than normal length, making up a piece of facing material of greater length than necessary to face body material of normal length, securing the facing and body material along Vere tical edges, folding the excess body'material and facing upwardly then positioning the facing upon the material so that the excess portion of the facing overlaps the contiguous excess portion of the. body material, and securing the free edges of these portions together, and also securing the vertical edge of the excess facing portion to the excess my name. 

